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Most models make a good cup of coffee. Higher-priced models usually have more convenience features and fancier styling.

The popularity of Starbucks and other specialty coffee shops seems to be driving demand for a new generation of coffeemakers that seeks to replicate the coffeehouse experience at home. Customized brewing, integrated grinders, and thermal carafes are a few of the features manufacturers are hoping will encourage consumers to trade up. Truth is, virtually any model can make a good cup as long as you use decent coffee.

WHAT'S AVAILABLE

While manual-drip systems, coffee presses, and percolators are available, consumers buy more automatic-drip coffeemakers than any other small kitchen appliance: 17 million per year. Mr. Coffee and Black & Decker are the two largest brands, along with well-known names such as Braun, Krups, Melitta, Proctor-Silex, Cuisinart, and Delonghi.

Coffeemakers come in sizes from single-cup models to machines capable of brewing up to 12 cups at a time. At the low end are bare-bones coffeemakers with a single switch to start the brewing process and a plain metal hotplate; pricier models can have programmable start and stop times, a water filter, frothing capability, and a thermal carafe. Most consumers opt for the more basic models. Black and white remain the standard colors, but some brands have added other hues. Price range: $15 to more than $100.

IMPORTANT FEATURES

A removable filter basket is the easiest for loading and, later, for removing the used filter; baskets that sit inside a pullout drawer can be messy. Paper filters--usually “cupcake” or cone-shaped--absorb oil and keep sediment from creeping through. Models with a permanent mesh filter need to be cleaned after each use, but can save you money over time. Neither type of filter detracted from coffee flavor in our tests. The simplest type of water reservoir is one with a big flip-top lid and lines that mark the number of cups in large, clearly visible numbers. Some reservoirs are removable--so you can fill up at the sink--and dishwasher safe. Transparent fill tubes with cup markings let you check the water level while pouring.

A thermal carafe helps retain flavor and aroma longer than a glass pot on a hotplate. Other niceties: a small-batch setting, which adjusts the flow of water through the coffee grounds to prevent you from getting a bitter or weak brew when making one to four cups; temperature and brew-strength controls; and a pause and serve feature that lets you pour a cup before the whole pot’s done. A programmable timer lets you add ground coffee and water the night before, so you can wake up to a freshly brewed pot in the morning. An auto shutoff feature turns off the heating element, compensating for human forgetfulness. Most models have a preprogrammed time; others let you set the time. If you’re pressed for space, you might appreciate a coffeemaker with controls on the side. This allows you to turn the machine sideways, making it less deep on the counter.

Full-sized coffeemakers can be full of features, but not all of them add much. Here are some features of dubious value.

There’s little need for a self-clean cycle. Sending a mix of water and white vinegar through the machine usually cleans it effectively; a special cycle just holds the cleaning solution longer. A water filter is supposed to eliminate off-tastes and odors. But you must replace it after a specified number of pots (at about $5 per filter) to prevent bacteria buildup. If water quality is a worry, a whole-house or faucet filter may be a better choice than a coffeemaker filter.

A carafe prewarm setting heats the carafe before the coffee drips in. In theory, that helps keep coffee warmer longer. In practice, it doesn’t make much difference. Built-in bean grinders can be annoying to use and clean. Grounds tend to spill, and you may need to upend the machine to empty residues. A separate burr-type grinder should work better. Temperature adjustment lets you set the temperature of some hot plates, from about 160 to 190 degrees. But we found that all plates kept coffee hot enough--about 175 degrees.

HOW TO CHOOSE

Consider how much you consume. If one cup of coffee is enough to jump-start your day, you’ll like the convenience and compactness of a single-serve drip coffeemaker. You’ll probably use (and waste) less coffee than with a full-sized machine. For coffee-to-go, consider a model that comes with an insulated mug.

If you’re a coffee junkie, or if you entertain a lot, you’ll need a bigger coffeemaker. Most large machines produce 10 to 12 cups, but be aware that a manufacturer’s cup is usually 4 or 5 ounces, not the huge mug that may come to mind--and not the 6 ounces most coffee packages use as a basis for directions.

Consider how often you refill. If you wait an hour between cups, buy a full-sized coffeemaker with a thermal carafe. Those keep coffee hot and fresh-tasting for hours. The warming plates that accompany glass carafes keep coffee hot, but flavor suffers with constant heating.

Consider convenience. Certain basic design details apply to all coffeemakers, plain or fancy: The models rated highest for convenience have clearly marked water reservoirs, easy-to-use swing-out filter baskets, and simple, intuitive controls. The more annoying models have hard-to-read water gauges, filter baskets with a high fumble factor, and carafes that are as likely to spill coffee as pour it. Extra options to look for--if any--will depend on your coffee-drinking habits.

Consider counter space. Some machines need considerable space. Those with controls on the side instead of the front can be placed sideways on a countertop so they steal less depth.

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