Many people are choosing models that do more than just grill. Go high-end, and you can pay as much as you would for a pro-style kitchen range.

Getting a good grill is becoming easier and cheaper as competition heats up; some of the best we tested cost $200 or less. You’ll also find $500 grills with the added style, space, and convenience of the much pricier models.

Stainless steel tops the list of high-end features that are moving down the price spectrum. Many lower-priced models now have at least some stainless trim, while midpriced models typically feature more of it as manufacturers find ways to offer the shiny metal for less.

You’ll also find more grills that cost $1,000-plus as kitchen-range brands such as Frigidaire and Viking move onto the patio. At the other extreme, manufacturers are introducing more small, portable grills as they cash in on the popularity of tailgating.

WHAT'S AVAILABLE

Char-Broil, Coleman, Kenmore (Sears), and Weber account for more than 60 percent of gas-grill sales.

Basic grill. These grills are ideal for barbecuers who want a good small or medium-sized grill without the frills, for serving four to six people. Features include a painted cart and cast-aluminum firebox and hood; thin porcelain-steel grates; a side burner for some; more stainless trim as you spend more. But most of these grills lack premium, coated cast-iron or thick stainless grates; burners with long warranties; rotisseries; and trays that hold wood chips for smoking. Many carts have only two wheels and lack drawers and other features. Price range: $100 to $300

Midpriced grill. Grills in this price range are the best choice for most outdoor cooks. Options include medium-sized grills with more features and, increasingly, large models that can cook enough for 15 people. Features include longer-warranty burners; premium grates; higher-heat, recessed side burners; an electronic igniter; a rotisserie or smoker tray; more stainless; double doors. But some carts have only two wheels. Many midpriced models have premium grates or burners with long warranties, but few have both. Price range: $300 to $500

High-end grill. Best for those who want a more-stylish medium-sized or large grill that can serve up to 15 people. Features include those on midpriced grills plus mostly or all-stainless construction; lifetime burner warranties; more burners with more heat; a fully rolling cart; better storage space. Paying $1,000 or more often buys a toe-kick that hides the wheels. But based on our tests, paying more than $1,000 for a high-end model usually doesn’t buy you better grilling. Price range: $500 to $1,000-plus.

IMPORTANT FEATURES

Most cooking grates are made of porcelain-coated steel, with others made of the somewhat sturdier porcelain-coated cast iron, bare cast iron, or stainless steel. A porcelain-coated grate is rustproof and easy to clean, but it can eventually chip. Bare cast iron is sturdy and sears beautifully, but you have to season it with cooking oil to fend off rust.

The best of both worlds: Stainless steel is sturdy and resists rust without a porcelain coating. Cooking grates with wide, closely spaced bars tend to provide better searing than grates with thin, round rods, which may allow more food to fall to the bottom of the grill. Grills are mounted on a cart, usually made of painted steel tubing assembled with nuts and bolts. Higher-priced grills have welded joints, and some have a cart made of stainless steel. Pricier grills often use 300-series stainless steel, which includes nickel and has more corrosion-fighting chromium than less-expensive, 400-series stainless. Manufacturers often use the cheaper stuff to cut costs. A stainless grill that is magnetic is made of the less-expensive material. Carts with two wheels and two feet must be lifted at one end to move; better are two large wheels and two casters or four casters, which make moving easier. Wheels with a full axle are better than those bolted to the frame, which can bend over time.

Gas grills generally have one or more exterior shelves, which flip up from the front or side or are fixed on the side. Shelves are usually made of plastic, though some are made of cast aluminum or stainless steel, which is more durable. (Wood shelves are the least sturdy and tend to deteriorate over time.) Most grills have interior racks for keeping food warm without further cooking. Another plus is a lid and firebox made of stainless steel or porcelain-coated steel, both of which are more durable than cast aluminum.

Still other features help a grill start more easily and cook more evenly. An example is the igniter, which works via a knob or a push button. Knobs emit two or three sparks per turn, while push buttons emit a single spark per push. Better are battery-powered electronic igniters, which produce continuous sparks as long as the button is held down. Also look for lighting holes on the side of or beneath the grill, which are handy if the igniter fails and you need to use a wooden match or propane lighter to start the fire.

Most gas grills have steel burners, though some are stainless steel, cast iron, or cast brass. Those premium burners typically last longer and carry warranties of 10 years or more. Many grills have three or more burners, which can add cooking flexibility. A side burner, which resembles a gas-stove burner and has its own heat control, is handy for cooking vegetables or sauce without leaving the grill. Other step-up features include an electric rotisserie, a fuel gauge, a smoker drawer, a wok, a griddle pan, a steamer pan, a deep fryer, a nonstick grill basket, and one or more high-heat infrared burners in place of the conventional type.

Most gas grills also use a cooking medium--a metal plate or metal bars, ceramic or charcoal-like briquettes, or lava rocks--between the burner and grates to distribute heat and vaporize juices, flavoring the food. Our tests have shown that no one type is better at ensuring even heating.

Gas grills sometimes include a propane tank; buying a tank separately costs about $25. Some grills can be converted to run on natural gas or come in a natural-gas version. The tank usually sits next to or on the base of the grill and attaches to its gas line with a handwheel. All tanks must now comply with upgraded National Fire Protection Association standards for overfill protection. Noncompliant tanks have a circular or five-lobed valve and aren’t refillable, although they can be retrofitted with a three-lobed valve or swapped for a new tank at a hardware store or other refilling facility.

HOW TO CHOOSE

Most gas grills should perform at least adequately at your next alfresco feast. As with indoor ranges, some models do so with more style and panache.

Consider your cooking. Grills with wide or thick stainless or cast-iron grates tend to be best at searing and browning quickly to seal in juices--essential for meats and fish. Wide grates also leave the wide grill marks barbecue buffs crave. But heavy grates can take longer to heat up.

Take a head count. If you often entertain large crowds, look for a large grill with lots of grilling, shelf, and storage space. You’ll find several capable choices.

Inspect the burners. These distribute the gas and flames. They’re also a gas grill’s most-replaced part. Main burners warranted for 10 years or more are likely to last longest. Recessed side burners are also a plus, since some can accept a griddle and others include one. If you don’t cover your grill, look for a side burner with its own cover. 

Check the construction. Make sure the rolling cart that supports the firebox and lid doesn’t rattle when shaken. If you want a stainless-steel grill and you’re picky about stains, look for stainless fasteners and better, 300-series stainless (bring a magnet to the store). Or, consider buying a grill made with the cheaper, 400-series stainless and protecting it with a cover (about $40 to $50).

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